Tequila and mezcal are staples of the Mexican culture in Chicago and around the world, yet few people know the origin of the spirits, said renowned Mexican-American chef Diana Dávila. Both beverages were created and consumed by the indigenous people in Mexico.
Tequila, mezcal and pulque were all considered low-class drinks in that country, she said.
“Only the poor would drink them,” said Dávila, who was named one of the 10 best chefs in the nation by Food & Wine magazine last year and is a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist. Her Logan Square restaurant, Mi Tocaya Antojeria (2800 W. Logan Blvd.), was a semifinalist for Best New Restaurant.
These spirits go beyond serving as key ingredients of margaritas. “They tell a story of the Mexican people, of our roots,” she added. “It’s important for people to be aware of where they came from because just like Mexican food, they all tell a story and define our history.”
That “story” can also be found in tacos, the iconic dish that has defined Mexico’s gastronomy and culture, she said.
“It’s so cool that we invented the taco. It is one of the most delicious foods in the world, but Mexican food goes beyond tacos and margaritas,” said Dávila, who added she is unbothered by those who solely see her rich culture through tacos, tortas and burritos.
But there’s one thing she wanted to clarify: Mexican food shouldn’t be perceived as cheap or inferior to others.
“It is magic,” she said. At her restaurant, Dávila prepares dishes inspired by her grandmother, mother and aunt, but adds her own twist. Each dish is created with “a lot of love, time and passion” to share the memories and evoke nostalgia .
A mole — a traditional sauce — takes hours to make, Dávila said, adding that people need to take into consideration the richness of the ingredients that are used to prepare traditional Mexican dishes.
“Learning and understanding where and why each ingredient came from signifies the respect I owe to my ancestors,” said the chef, who continues to study the history of Mexican gastronomy and invited others to do the same.
“I want people to learn to appreciate the richness and story behind the flavors.”
Dávila is a native Chicagoan and the daughter of Mexican parents from San Luis Potosi, Mexico, where she would spend her summers. She grew up with women who loved to cook, Dávila recalled.
It wasn’t until she began working as a chef that she realized the great influence her culture had in her creations. Even though her parents owned a Mexican restaurant, it wasn’t for the same reasons she opened her own venture.
“They did (it) out of necessity. My parents wanted to be entrepreneurs and gave people what they expected and wanted: tacos and margaritas. I, on the other hand, opened a restaurant out of my passion to share with others the love for my food and culture.”
At Mi Tocaya, Dávila sometimes walks around to explain to customers the story behind the dish they ordered.
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“Every single dish has a memory attached to it,” she said. Her Peanut Butter y Lengua reminds her of her uncle, who cooked beef tongue with a peanut butter sauce at family parties when she was growing up, Dávila said.
“Some people ask, ‘Is that even Mexican food?’” she said. “Mexican food, just like Mexican people, is not homogeneous.”
Dávila said she chose to open an antojereía — derived from antojo, meaning having a craving — because it romanticizes the concept of her Mexican restaurant.
“It means you have a longing for something,” she said. “That’s Mexican food. It’s flavors and smells (that) remind you of something or someone and it makes you happy.”
Laura Rodríguez is a journalist for HOY, our Spanish-language sister publication. She translated this story from Spanish to English. You may read the original Spanish version here.
Twitter @laura_n_rod
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